Hawaii: The Essence of Oahu
The 'Pali' Destination Puts Golfers Beyond the Resorts and Into ParadiseAvid golfers know a thing or two about where to play, whether it be a certain course across town or one of the world’s renowned golf resorts. Those who’ve been to Hawaii a time or two, however, know that the islands offer more than high-end resort courses with spectacular oceanside holes. In fact, the islands have almost as many outstanding stand-alone independent daily-fee layouts to delight one’s golf cravings as all the Princevilles, Kapaluas and Mauna Keas combined. And that’s good for true golf nuts who travel, better yet if they can’t help but be lured to the islands to play the grand game. Best of all is when they realize that Oahu is a golfer’s paradise for more reasons than just golf. One of Hawaii’s best-kept secrets is that Oahu offers more courses — nearly 40 — and a wider range of them than any of the other islands. True, Oahu is short on golf resorts — Turtle Bay Resort on the North Shore, Ko Olina near the ocean on Oahu’s leeward southwest side and the reborn Makaha Resort Golf Club in the majestic valley of the same name one mile inland from the sprawling western beaches are, in fact, the only three this island has to offer. But who really needs a resort? The entire island is a beehive of things to do and places to see. There’s a reason why this island is called The Gathering Place. Oahu offers the best nightlife, the best entertainment and the best variety in dining of all the other islands combined. The beaches and overall natural beauty stand the test as well. And, being an island, it’s not a long drive to any one of them. Word to the wise: Make sure you rent your own vehicle to best enjoy what Oahu has to offer. A must-visit is windward Oahu on the other side of the Koolau mountain range from Honolulu and Waikiki. Even though this eastside shoreline of residential communities and commercial strips is only some 20 minutes from downtown Honolulu’s financial district and 35 minutes from the hustle and bustle of the Waikiki Beach hotel district, it really is a world away. That’s exactly why many locals (kama’aina) choose to live here. It’s rural with drop dead beautiful vistas. Beaches. Spectacular remnants of once-towering volcanic peaks. And two of the best golf courses the entire state of Hawaii has to offer — the Koolau Golf Club and Luana Hills Country Club. We call these two daily-fee venues The Pali Golf Destination. You can’t go wrong with this dynamic duo. There are three other public golf courses nearby, but Koolau’s next-door Pali Municipal Golf Course (a promising layout if course conditioning was ever attained and maintained) has long lost its glow, the Bay View Golf Park’s executive layout next to Kaneohe Bay is in even worse condition (although new owners promise to breath life back into this now worn facility) and the laid back Olomana Golf Links down the road in Waimanalo is a sporty course with decent greens and some solid holes, but is mainly for locals, brah. Koolau is situated amid 1,500 acres of roiling rainforest ravines at the very foot of the Koolau range (pronounced Ko-oh-LAU). It’s extreme topography with no fewer than three separate micro-climates. The prevailing trade winds bring needed moisture to windward Oahu. Sometimes too much. When systems bump up against the 2,000-foot-plus Koolau range — which extends some 30 miles nearly all the way from Oahu’s southeastern point to the North Shore — the rains fall. This sometimes leads to fairways that are too soft and slopes that are too slippery to walk. But when the course is dry and the sun is shining, there is no better place to be than lining up a putt on any of Koolau’s picture-perfect greens. Local knowledge has it that when 3,105-foot Mt. Konahuanui, which soars above the Pali Highway’s Pali Lookout, is either clear or barely touched by clouds, you can be assured of a perfect day in the sun at the Koolau Golf Club below. When the original owners directed architect Dick Nugent and designer Jack Tuthill to create the most challenging course they could, they delivered. Tuthill says the routing began with the discovery of the view of Kaneohe Bay from what is now the 17th tee, a treacherous downhill par 3. Enjoy the view to the north to Chinaman’s Hat (Mokolii Island) before striping a shot from the 178-yard resort blue tees. The very first hole sets the tone. A downhill dogleg-left par 5, this hole is a cascade of bunkers, lurking sidehill lies and coveted landing areas. Aim at the black and white 150-yard pole in the second landing area, and you are assured a beautiful approach to an inviting green. A well-placed tee shot at the par-4 No. 3 affords the opportunity for a dramatic approach on this severe dogleg right. Aim your second left to avoid a deep bunker and savor the moment as your ball floats against the green tapestry of Koolau’s deeply scoured cliff face. Once you reach No. 15, the shortest par 4 at 312 yards from the blue tees, take the time to enjoy what lies before you. The fairway parallels the Koolau range as you head back toward the clubhouse. Climb up to the very elevated very back tee, which plays at 373 yards, and you will be astounded. Koolau is famous — some might say notorious — for its long forced carries across jungle-laden ravines. The par-4 18th is regarded as possibly the most difficult two-shotters anywhere on the planet. This beast boasts not only a long forced carry off the tee from all but the far-forward tee box, which is politely set across the ravine, but also a double-fairway feature. Monster hitters who can hit it very long high might consider going directly towards the green via the second fairway to the right although, on top of everything else, it’s a blind shot. Only the accomplished single-digit handicap golfer can contemplate hitting a long approach over yet another forced carry, this one featuring a waste bunker as well as a deep ditch, with club selection dependent on whether or not the flagstick is forward on this elongated, heavily bunkered elevated green. When the flagstick is back left, say another prayer. It seems only right that Koolau’s last hole is its most difficult. Breaking 100 at Koolau for the 15-handicapper is an accomplishment. It’s smart to enjoy a round here than butt heads with par, so hit from either of the two forward tees and avoid the tuosm which play some 7,300 yards to a slope of a world-high 162. Koolau really is the toughest golf course in America, maybe the world. It’s also quite likely one of the most beautiful as well. Take caution. This course is for thinkers only; shotmaking is key and target golf is king. Wild hitters need to throttle down. Club selection is paramount. Take time to study each shot before you fire away, and the course will virtually tell you what to hit next. This also is a course to be thoroughly enjoyed, no matter what your skill level. Architect Pete Dye and his brother Perry took care to accentuate the natural beauty including Mt. Olomana, a sharply pointed edifice between Luana Hills and the windward coast. The front nine offers a collection of delightful short 4-pars and just plain fun 3-pars. No. 3 is the one you see when driving the long and winding road in to the clubhouse, perhaps the most photographed hole on the course. Now that you get to play it, the only places you can miss it are a little long or a little right. The next hole is a par 4 boasting a view from the tee box that is simply cathedral. The Koolau Range stands immediately above a beautiful green backdropped by the verdant rainforest and bracketed by a long waste bunker at left. A hillside at right hides a small bunker. Aim right to avoid pulling your mid-iron approach left, hope to miss the sand and your ball has a good chance of getting its ticket to the dance floor with a friendly roll down the slope. Risk. And reward. That’s Luana Hills. The three finishing holes are jaw droppers. After completing the nasty par-4 17th, lick your wounds or celebrate your good fortune with a beverage, maybe even light up a victory cigar during the minutes-long cart ride to the elevated 18th tee and its commanding view of the clubhouse. You only wish the landing area was a wee bit bigger. Hit it and you’re happy again. Next comes a wonderful approach shot with nothing but trouble if you go left. Do you see it? The course will tell you where to hit it. Do it, and you will be rewarded. At Luana Hills you need to leave your driver in the bag — better yet, back at the hotel room. Play your favorite fairway wood, utility club or even mid- to long iron off the par-4 and par-5 tees. You will have a better day that way. Keep in mind one other thing when playing Koolau and Luana Hills. Bring your camera, and a fresh roll of film. Photographer Evan Schiller once identified no fewer than 28 photos he wanted to shoot at the Hills. The same could be said of Koolau, where virtually every hole is its own masterpiece. Catch either one on a typical sunny day with Hawaii-blue skies — and that’s virtually every day — and what you shoot on the scorecard won’t matter nearly as much as what you shoot on film. Unless, of course, you have the round of your life, which is a distinct possibility at both Koolau and Luana Hills. FG Golfing PaliKoolau, www.koolaugolfclub.com, 808.247.7088 | Luana Hills, www.luanahills.com, 808.262.2139
Pali GolfKoolau Golf Club Pampering the Pali Palate
After your round at Koolau, the town of Kaneohe (Bamboo Man) offers up some surprising eateries, from little “hole in the wall” finds along the industrial district’s Kahuhipa Street that runs between Kahekili and Kam highways to longtime favorites, including Honey’s right next to the golf shop at Koolau. Honey’s is named after the mother of Mr. Tiny Bubbles himself, Don Ho, who drops by often. Zia’s Caffe, Italian casual, reader comments
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American BeautyJune-July 2006
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