Taste of Italy
Out of a Botched Reservations Comes a Pleasant Surprise on the Las Vegas StripIt’s a football phrase in a food story in a golf magazine, but sometimes the best results come out of broken plays. Like the night, during the opening week of Wynn Las Vegas, when our reservation for teppanyaki at Okada was mistakenly listed as a main dining room table. A simple mistake with a simple solution. The difference between that night and a recent evening on the Las Vegas Strip was all about service. At Wynn, the attentive staff apologized for the inconvenience and quickly found us even better dining accommodations at Bartolotta, where the exquisite fresh-from-the-Mediterranean flavors made for one of the more memorable meals we’ve ever encountered. Such was not the case, at least on the apology end, on a recent trip to the ultra-hip Tao Las Vegas in The Venetian, where our Friday night reservations were lost and little help was to be found. The girl behind the seating book, named Erica if I correctly recall the moment I’ve tried hard to forget, was your typical Boulevard worker — far too much makeup and Las Vegas breasts, with cleavage flashing more than the famed neon skyline. “I am the manager,” she sniffed when we asked for a higher-up to help correct the mistake and get us seated, rather than leaving us looking for a last-minute meal worthy of the Golfing Gourmet. And with that, we said goodbye. Actually, we didn’t say anything. We just walked out. And we turned our attention across the street, where Caesars Palace and the Forum Shops offer a nice collection of high-end dining. A friend of FG, Chris Unick of Corsa Collections, recommended a small, little Italian eatery at the top of the staircase above the front entrance. We arrived without reservation and were seated quickly, treated with the class and sophistication all patrons of Il Mulino New York receive, whether they’re in the original East Coast location, the Las Vegas restaurant or any of the Masci brothers’ nine locations worldwide. A plate of sauteéd mushrooms, thinly sliced, awaited at our table, and we were greeted with fresh bread and a chunk of parmesan cheese cut straight off the wheel in front of our very eyes. That was followed by tasty bruschetta — all of this, and we hadn’t even orded yet. The night had certainly taken a turn for the better. What was that other restaurant’s name again? Las Vegas’ version of Il Mulino New York is an odd sort of dining room, shaped long and narrow, with a service table in full view to watch the final preparations of every dish, detailed to perfection. As spring was still a little on the chilly side, we couldn’t take advantage of the patio seating overlooking the city lights, but I could imagine sitting out there on a warm evening, chianti vintage in hand, enjoying the summer breeze and inhaling the rich aromas of each dish as they are presented to the surrounding tables. On this night, our table was filled with food for close to three hours, as we sampled both lamb and braised veal chops — possibly the most tender red meat I’ve ever tasted. And then there were the many pastas, which are Il Mulino’s true specialty. The gnocchi is a true delight, and any visit should include a sampler of the night’s featured pastas and sauces to share with the table. Based on pure taste and service, Il Mulino just might be serving the best Italian meals in Las Vegas. It certainly stands alongside another FG favorite, Fiamma, at the MGM Grand, if not above, it in the dining echelon of this little town that used to be all about buffets and now sports some of the best menus in the known universe. And like many of Sin City’s devilishly good newer restaurants, Il Mulino has quite a pedigree. Fernando and Gino Masci were born and raised in the mountainous countryside of Abruzzo, Italy, and both apprenticed in the best restaurants in Rome. They’ve traveled the world, from Europe to Canada, and settled in New York in the 1970s, opening Il Mulino in 1981. Today, with their many locations, the Masci brothers still pride themselves on personally training the kitchen and wait staff who prepare and serve each of their simple yet delightful dishes. And their spirit showed in each and every moment of our first Il Mulino experience. Of course, Il Mulino is one of those restaurants where you definitely get what you pay for, especially on the pricey Las Vegas Strip. Our two-person feast, which included the works, plus deserts and a couple bottles of wine, cost about the same as a round for two at one of Southern Nevada’s higher-end golf courses. But would I pay it again? In a New York minute. FG Il Mulino Forum Shops at Caesars Palace reader comments
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American BeautyJune-July 2006
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