Pacific Northwest: Mountain Mastery

by Adam Brady

For History and Epic Views, Banff 'Springs' Into Action

It goes with little argument that Wayne Gretzky was at a higher level in his game than Michael Jordan ever was in his. But because he’s Canadian and played hockey, he hasn’t gotten nearly the attention in the States that was lavished on MJ.

The same premise affects the legacy of golf architect Stanley Thompson, whose designs during his era rivaled — and even bettered — those of American legends like Ross, Tillinghast and MacKenzie. But because Thompson’s work was done in the Great White North, we’ve hardly heard of him on the south side of our northern border. Essentially, he’s the Wayne Gretzky of course design.

Thompson won acclaim for integrating natural environment and panoramic vistas in creating gems like Jasper Park Lodge in the Canadian Rockies, Highlands Links in Nova Scotia and St. George’s in Ontario. But his finest work may have been at the captivating Fairmont Banff Springs, among the Canadian Rockies in beautiful Alberta.

When Banff Springs opened in 1928, it was the first golf course in the world to cost more than $1 million to construct and took six years to complete. Several renovations have been made during the seven decades since its unveiling, but a $4.5 million overhaul completed in 1999 made every effort to restore the design that Thompson intended, with a few hundred yards tacked on for the modern player.

The result is everything you could want in a golf course.

Want stunning views? In every direction you can see either enormous granite mountains, skyscraping pines or the majestic Fairmont Banff Springs hotel. More eye candy comes from the Bow River winding around much of the layout.
Want great golf holes? The fourth, known ominously as the Devil’s Cauldron, is a par 3 where players hit from an elevated tee over a large glacial lake. The target is a green sitting in a virtual bowl, encircled by a half dozen bunkers with a 3,000-foot cliff as a backdrop. (It is one of a quintet of spectacular 3-pars, three of which demand a water carry.) The tee on the par-4 No. 15 flanks the hotel and requires a winding uphill climb. But like the slow climb on a rollercoaster, the thrill starts once you arrive at the top, as a well-struck tee shot over the Spray River to the pristine fairway below is a gratifying sight.

Want challenge? The course stretches out to just more than 7,000 yards, although the elevation shortens it a bit. The preponderance of pines, water — both in the pond and river varieties — mountain winds and a number of steep, well-placed bunkers make precision a must. That is especially true on several holes where the fairways are narrower than a dormitory hallway.

Want great conditions? The fairways and greens are immaculate for most of the year, while bunker sand is kept so fine you almost appreciate your lie when you find one.

Want variety? Consecutive 4-pars (Nos. 5 and 6) range from a 424-yard dogleg left to a straightaway 351-yarder with no fairway bunkers. Among the 3-pars are the 138-yard No. 8 with “birdie opportunity” written all over it, as well as a 220-yard No. 10 where “bailout area” is the phrase that most comes to mind. Seven straight holes from the end of the back nine onward play into the wind, but several others get help from the prevailing mountain breezes. Many of the green surfaces are expansive and undulating, but others are small and relatively flat. The course’s opening holes give the feeling of being right in the mountains, while later in the journey they only frame the layout from a distance, playing tricks with your depth perception.

Want wildlife? There’s enough elk milling around the course to require a local rule allowing a free drop if you elect not to chase a ball hit near one — or a herd — of them.

Want options? The Tunnel 9 is a 3,357-yard sister course that offers a more benign experience to those who want a respite from the Thompson 18.

Want famous players? Visiting celebs have included Bob Hope and Clint Eastwood. Marilyn Monroe played Banff Springs while shooting a movie called “A River of No Return.” Faith Hill and Tim McGraw were reportedly on the course when our group finished up during a visit last summer.

Want history? The course has been around for 70 years of splendor, and its traditional parkland layout reflects its origin. Thompson reportedly used horses, mules, railcars and several hundred men to transport materials and shape the land.
Even more history is packed into the Fairmont Banff Springs, which seemingly rises from the pines under the shadow of the snow-capped Rockies. The hotel has been on the site for 118 years (after it took 18 years to complete), built in an old Scottish baronial style that has earned it the name “Castle in the Rockies.” A closer look reveals a luxurious property housing an astounding 770 guest rooms, each with valley or mountain views. Guest rooms and suites are elegantly decorated and are roomy enough to discourage you from ever leaving.

But if you should, plenty of options abound, including the indoor and outdoor pools and Jacuzzis, the Willow Stream Spa, and activities such as horseback riding, river rafting, mountain biking, hiking and skiing.

Then there’s the food and drink. The hotel itself has 12 restaurants, including fine dining (and a great collection of wines) at the five-diamond Banffshire Club, California fare at the Bow Valley Grill and Italian cuisine at the Castello Ristorante.

But at least once during your stay you will want to leave campus for the town of Banff, a bustling locale with countless fun restaurants and bars, as well as plenty of shopping options. Steak lovers will revere the popular Saltlik, an upscale and trendy spot with a wealth of melt-in-your-mouth beef and fish options. Before and after the meal, the bar-lounge on the first floor is an appealing spot for locals and visitors.

Transportation downtown is available via shuttle from the Fairmont Banff Springs’ main entrance. A continuously running shuttle also runs between the golf clubhouse and the hotel. Speaking of drives, Banff is just a 1 1/2-hour trip west of Calgary, whose airport receives Air Canada flights from several American cities. FG

Banff Springs

Banff, Alberta, Canada  |  403.762.2211  |  www.fairmont.com/banffsprings

GREENS, EGGS & HAM
“Whether you like them with butter or jam, you’re sure to love Greens, Eggs & Ham” — that’s what the Fairmont Banff Springs has to say about one of the hotel’s trio of golf packages. The GE&H includes room, 18 holes of golf and gourmet breakfast each day. Packages run through the end of the season — Oct. 8 — so call or schedule online for rates and availability.

Fairmont Banff Springs Golf

Stanley Thompson 18
Designed in 1928
5,607 to 7,083 yards
Season: May 1 through Oct. 9
Fees: $125 to $200 including cart
Tunnel 9
Designed in 1989
2,806 to 3,357 yards
Fees: $40 to $60 walking, $60 to $80 with cart