Golfing Gourmet: CAMPS-Fired Cuisine

by Darin Bunch

Few could have imagined what this land would bring forth in the latter stages of the 20th century. Certainly not the Selkirks or McCauleys, farmers and ranchers who worked these foothills for three generations. Nor the author also known as Samuel Langhorne Clemens who made Calaveras County famous with his tales of flopping frogs.

Nor the inexperienced “greenhorn” prospectors who sought their fortunes in the rich diggings of the Gold Cliff vein. And especially not the Miwuk indians whose recorded history in these parts of Central California dates back nearly 1,000 years.

None of them could have foreseen a place like Greenhorn Creek Resort.

Yet their stories are the foundation of this golf community along Highway 4, just west of Route 49, in the Mother Lode town of Angels Camp. It’s just down the road from the quaint burg of Murphys, which some consider to be the “next Carmel” and makes for a nice day trip during any prolonged stay at the friendly resort.

Reminders of the days of yore dot the Greenhorn landscape, from the still-standing stone chimney built in 1862 to the rock wall that crosses the No. 4 fairway. The lake surrounded by holes 5, 6 and 7 was created from a drainage area where Chinese laborers mined for gold in the 1860s and 1870s and was later used to water cattle in the mid-1900s.

“Under the shadow of Bear Mountain, with 300 days of sunshine per year, this is a glorious place to be,” says Sherri Smith, who with her husband Del assumed management of resort operations in 2003.

And it’s an enjoyable place to play golf, especially after Robert Trent Jones II brought his $2 million updating skills to the Don Boos design in 1999. The result is a course that’s much easier on the psyche but still hides a few tricks up its green sleeves. In many ways, Jones transformed the Greenhorn Creek course into a thinker’s track. While three very reachable 5-pars tempt you with the smell of eagle, the bunkering, landing areas and club-twisting rough can often turn thoughts of easy birdie into grumbles of tap-in bogey.

And, throughout the round, the scenery engulfs you in a landscape of wonderful color, brought into full focus on the No. 13 tee box, where, on a clear day, you feel as though you can see forever. It’s a hole that has long been a favorite of Fairways + Greens and was recently named “One of the Best” by the Northern California Golf Association magazine.

Back where it all began, at the clubhouse, the nods to the area’s rich heritage continue. Like the Selkirk chimney itself, CAMPS, Greenhorn’s restaurant and steakhouse, is built of hand-cut and chiseled rhyolite stone from a local quarry.

CAMPS’ rustic warmth, combined with sunset views of the course, create an ideal setting for an intimate dinner between two or a celebratory group toasting a day of golf well played. And, as with much of the overall Greenhorn grounds, the restaurant’s interior reads like a history book. Doorways and windows are framed in recovered Douglas fir, dating to 1910. The bar tops are Carrara marble. The tables are made from 230-year-old wood recycled from an old barn. And majestic stone fireplaces flank 12-foot panel doors.

The menu focuses on fresh, local ingredients cooked into regional classics. And although red meat is how the steakhouse earns its reputation (Prime Rib, Ribeye and Filet Mignon with Garlic Prawns must be sampled), we’re partial to the Roasted Duck Breast, Port-Braised and served with Truffled Risotto — it’s as tender and delicious as you’ll find at any eatery in the West. But remember: It’s a seasonal selection, so don’t pass it up if you see it on the menu.

And don’t forget to highlight your meal with a local wine. With its rich soil and temperate climate, grape growing in Calaveras County is as old as the Gold Rush, when French and Italian immigrants brought varietals with them. The county is home to 37 growers and 19 wineries, many honored with multiple awards. Plus, CAMPS features a list of favorites from Napa, Sonoma and the Central Coast.

“We strive to serve good, consistent, wonderful food, with an element of hospitality and service that makes you truly feel special,” Smith says. You can hear the pride and excitement in her voice as she talks about the resort’s 10th anniversary year, marking Greenhorn Creek’s maturity into a destination that has found its heart and soul, complete with live music at CAMPS on Friday-Saturday nights and comfortable stay-and-play options starting at $75 per person.

With a foundation like this, we look forward to being part of Greenhorn Creek’s history for years to come. FG

CAMPS at Greenhorn Creek Resort

Angels Camp, Calif. | 209.729.8181

www.greenhorncreek.com

Can’t Miss? While CAMPS offers a wide range of cuisine, you simply must try the prime rib. “It’s what people come for and what people love,” says Sherri Smith, Greenhorn’s director of operations.