Slice of Lifestyle: Wine

Maui Rose wine is good, but you'll have to visit the islands to taste it.

TEDESCHI VINEYARDS

www.mauiwine.com

In honor of this issue’s special Hawaii coverage, we thought we’d venture “upcountry” to check out the Valley Isle’s only commercial winery, which was a sugar plantation and cattle ranch before opening 30 years ago. Currently offered are four grape vintages, three pineapple wines and the occasional specialty sipper — such as “Framboise de Maui,” a raspberry wine. Grapes for the traditional blush, brut sparkling, Rose Ranch cuvee sparkling and ‘Ulupalakua red are grown on the flanks of 10,023-foot Haleakala, known better for its bike riding than its wine touring. Still, 180,000 thirsty visitors head for Tedeschi Vineyards and the historic King Kalakaua Cottage Tasting Room each year. Nobody’s saying these wines have the depth or stress-induced richness of Napa Valley or Central Coast wines back on the mainland, but they hold their own.

A sampling: Pineapple Maui Blanc — Soft, semi-dry with a lingering pineapple finish. Works well with the fresh seafood-based Pacific Rim cuisine served all over the islands. Maui Blush — Red ripe berries accent the floral overtones of this soft wine with a watermelon hue. ‘Ulupalakua Red — The richest Maui vintage and bright in color like the strongest Hawaiian sunset, it is far from a near-chewable cabernet but intense enough, with a flitter of an oak finish to get the nod from many a red wine drinker. One thing about these wines: Unless you can get a friend to smuggle a bottle or two home, you’ll have to fly to Hawaii to get a taste. They’re served in restaurants from Kauai to the Big Island. Sounds like a good vacation excuse to us. Better yet, syrah, chenin blanc, pinot gris and two types of chardonnay are on the way.