Undercard: Kauai vs. Big Island
SUNNY SIDES SQUARE UP It is tempting to just call this matchup a draw and move on with our reservations to either tropical hotspot. This is Hawaii, after all, and these two resort-rich destinations — bookending the major Hawaiian Islands on their western and eastern flanks respectively — pretty much encompass the amazing geographic range the 50th state offers. They’re equally beautiful and refreshingly removed from the metromania of Honolulu. And each is directly accessible from the mainland thanks to a couple of major airlines, so it’s possible to avoid the big city altogether and sink right into their slower, ancient rhythms … and, at the same time, take deep swigs of their sparkling, indulgent modern sides — including more than a dozen courses between them, with several that rank among the world’s best seaside routings. And these two places are powerful. Neither hurricane nor earthquake can topple them. Economic downturns can’t put them on the ropes. Their well-schooled combinations of killer comfort and outdoor adventure are too strong a draw, their God-given defenses too sturdy to give up a knockout blow from any circumstance. That said, the lee sides of Kauai and Hawaii are as different in look and feel and tourism strategy as they are similar in their luxury-meets-nature ethos. Their appeal to golfers — and all travelers — takes on varying hues and flavors, depending on what they’re pining for in their island dreams. Overall Kauai is more classically tropical in the cinematic sense, dense with jungles and secluded beaches, though the south shore — home to the incredible Grand Hyatt Kauai Resort & Spa, one world-renowned golf course (Poipu Bay), one very fine sleeper (Kiahuna) and a locals’ favorite (Kukuiolono) gets far less rain than the north shore and sports terrain that’s somewhat pampas-like, all grassland and open vistas to the inland mountains. Just around the bend, anchoring the island’s southeast point, is the county seat of Lihue with its air and seaports, its own major resort (the Kauai Marriott & Beach Club), four courses, including 36 Jack Nicklaus-authored holes at the Kauai Lagoons Golf Club (whose Kiele Course is undergoing a facelift — visit fgmagazine.com for details), Robin Nelson’s delightful Puakea Golf Course (its back nine is pure jungle genius) and the affordable seaside track at Wailua. Though the Marriott is a worthy home base and most convenient to the airport, the Grand Hyatt takes must-stay honors, especially if it’s a family trip. Spread on 50 acres fast against Shipwreck Point, its 602 rooms, six restaurants (don’t miss Tidepools and its excellent seafood lineup), meandering pool-waterfall-slide complex, walking paths and award-winning Anari Spa — plus Robert Trent Jones’ rolling, tumbling Poipu Bay Golf Course right next door, with a final stretch strung pearl-like along the Pacific and Grand Slam of Golf pedigree — make this hotel a definite check-in-and-chuck-the-car-keys proposition. Not that anyone with, say, eight full days and a wandering spirit would hang for the duration when there’s so much island-style recreation all around, from whale watching, to freshwater bass fishing to horseback riding and world-renowned snorkeling. To sum up the Poipu region in boxing terms, we’ll go with experience, resilience (Hurricane Iniki tried to knock it out a few years back, but no dice), and mid-’60s Muhammad Ali good looks. As for the Big Island’s northwest corner, known as the Kohala Coast, it’s the younger, more raw and rangy contender — a mere child in geologic terms. Shielded from the tradewinds by 14,000-plus-foot-high Mauna Kea — one of the five major volcanoes that dominate the island — its lower flanks are pure desert striped with licorice slabs of black volcanic rock, wispy cheat grass and sturdy stands of kiawe trees — with the occasional man-planted palm groves sprouting up along the ever-churning sea. At first visit, it’s a bit of a shock to see all that sere, scorched land, but stick around for a day or two and tee it up on one of its several sublime seaside courses, and the Big Island’s brawny beauty comes crashing through the lava (or a’a, as the natives call it). Suddenly you’re hooked on the sweeping, naked serenity of the place and maybe mulling a timeshare purchase. You’ll feel the body punches to your soul, and they don’t hurt — they pull you in for more. The biggest challenge here is choosing where to stay and play. For the most Poipu-like experience, it’s the Hilton Waikoloa, a majestic Asian-themed resort where boats carry guests through manmade canals from the lobby to a dolphin pond, restaurants and shops. Debark and turn one palm-shaded corner and you’ll run into a finger of the Waikoloa Beach Course, another Trent Jones Jr. gem. Travel a half-mile or so inland and you’ll discover Tom Weiskopf’s Kings Course, which winds through lavabeds that house protected, ancient petroglyphs. Jump across the street to another hotel and you’ll find broad, gorgeous Anaemaholu Beach. Head in any direction from Waikoloa and the great golf buffet just gets more delicious. North is Mauna Lani and its two immaculate layouts, the South more recognizable for its former Senior Skins Game memories and delicious surf-spanning 3-pars. Further north yet is the granddaddy of all Hawaiian volcanic courses, Mauna Kea, which is currently under the knife — though you can still stay at one of the two big hotels there and get in a round or two at Hapuna, an Arnold Palmer-Ed Seay product that plays, savanna-like, above the sea. Up the hill a few miles are a couple of hidden treasures, including the Waikoloa Village Course, also by Trent Jones Jr. South of Waikoloa are the high-end enclaves of Hualalai, home to a Four Seasons Resort, courses by Jack Nicklaus and Tom Weiskopf, and a current Champions Tour event; and the more populous, traditionally tropical Kona Coast. For us it’s Waikoloa that makes the most sense as golf-and-stay central. Like Poipu, it’s paradise regained, all in one place. www.kauaidiscovery.com | www.gohawaii.com/big_island KAUAI/POIPU BIG ISLAND/KOHALA 10 Setting/Atmosphere 10 reader comments
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Signature SeriesDecember 2007
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